Algae Control in Fish Pond

Published on by in Technology

What is the best solution to avoid Algae in Fish Pond Systems? How to best get rid of it once there?

Much appreciated.

Taxonomy

11 Answers

  2. Let's keep our eyes on the ball.   Is this a commercial fish production operations?  If it is, then they want a lot of fish in a small area  this changes everything.  It is different from a small pond in a farmer's field.  If this  is a commercial production we are not talking about the aquatic cycle that we studied in college.  The operation would want to raise a lot of fish as fast as possible to make some money!  

    Because there are the possibility of several different problems,  everyone can be correct in their thinking about the problem.

     The question to answer is define the problem in specific terms including such as: commercial operation, pounds of fish havested, how often is it harvested, how much feed is used, how often are the fish fed, what are the chemical tests or are they even testing, what are the bacteria tests - if tested, what type of fish are being raised:e.g. tilapia, shrimp or catfish?

    Is this an aquaculture operation that needs some quality control and proper production methods, or just a pond in a farmers, backyard?

    Aquaculture can be a big operation, or a small one. 

  3. It will be better to find the root cause to get the solution. Algae serve as the most important food in the aquatic cycle. The presence of algae in water is must. Excess growth of algae is due to the increase Phosphorus (P)  in water. 1 mg of phosphorous can produce around 5 mg of algae. Therefore you have to monitor the P & N in water and ensure that it is in control.  Avoid any feed which will contribute the large amount of N & P into water. For further details please contact at rvsveipl@gmail.com

  4. I have considerable experience with this problem,  perhaps I can help.

    You said  Fish Pond Systems - plural.  So, I assume this is a series of fish ponds used to grow fish for commercial purposes.  Correct?  If that is the case, it changes the normal approach to controlling algae because we are looking at a possible nutrient overload situation from two sources:  the food that is not consumed, and the food that is and winds up as fish feces in the pond.  Fish do not produce the same feces as mammals or other animals because their kidneys are not developed in the same way.  So we look at the ammonia, amines, nitrites, and nitrate levels.  

    Thus, the normal algaecides should not be used alone. and the algaecides used for ponds is much different than those used in cooling towers: we sell both types. In addition, in the US, the pond algaecides must be EPA approved for that purpose: if you ignore it is big fine and jail time.  

    Now then, the last gentleman talked about Barley Straw which has sone some promise because of the specific bacteria that grow on Barley straw.  It is much cheaper to purchase the bactera, along with a few others that give a digestion of the nutrients without harming the fish or the handlers. We have come up with a blend of 8 bacteria strains that have done a good job for shrimp farming overseas, and catfish farming hear in the US.  We have successfully used the same bacteria blend for the removal and digestion of diesel fuel spills.  

    But, you should also have an initial spot treatment with an algaecide for a properly identified algae  because the governmental agencies both in the US and Europe have restricted the use to specific spicies application.  There are several chelated coppers that work well, but the species of algae will have to be identified.  

    Think this through, because one doesn't want to kill the fish, or have a poison carry over and kill a consumer of the fish.

    Forget about grass carp, they don't eat algae: they do eat vascular plants - that is why the are called grass and not called algae carp. 

    Forget about using chlorine - that will kill the fish by burning their gills. 

    Precipitation with aluminum will not work, because you want to kill the algae off by any method that works. They just don't fall out very well, and that doesn't kill them anyway. I just think it will take two methods to obtain control because this has been my experience.  A specific approved algaecide for the quick kill and the kill on the edges of the pond, and a bacteria for the removal of the nutrients.  This bacteria reproduces and doubles in population about every 15 minutes, so it is first to the dinner table: ahead of the algae. 

    Another problem to point out in this quickly sent message is pH.  You have to monitor it. The bacteria grow best in a pH from 6.5 minimum and preferably 7 to a pH of 8.2 the point where P alkalinity stops and the chemistry of many things change.  Above 8.2 to about 10 the algae grow best.  The two groups are competative, so in situations like this I like to circulate a little acid (not phosphoric acid because you get PO4 as an algae nutrient) to lower the pH from the ammonia added by the fish. 

    I hope this helps

    Waymon E. Hofheins

    President, Blue Valley Laboratories, Inc.

    Kansas City, MO

     

     

     

  6. If you are looking to use biological control, be sure that the species are native. Many invasive species have made it into the wild from taking a biological approach to controlling algae. There are many alternatives that are not as risky, such as clay (as mentioned) and starch polymers.

  7. Buy some carp fish, and turn them loose.  That should do it, otherwise, you could try a clay dispersion periodically to pull down the algae.

  9. Go in contact with

    Atlantium.com

    they deliver you the most appreciated chemical free solutions 

  10. one solution could be the use of special chemicals e.g. from the Austrian producer VTA (www.vta.cc) - the product name is VTA BT 24, a well established mixture of polymerised pply aluminium hidroxid chloride.